Surf Lesson | Learn to Surf

Understanding the break zone.

The break zone is the gateway to the deeper, calmer water where surfers can sit, relax and wait for a nice unbroken (green) wave to come their way. It is also an area that tests the skills of every surfer who wishes to paddle through it.

It is the zone where the waves peaks, breaks and releases its power. It can be an unforgiving area that requires special skills, board control and confidence to negotiate a way through.

You should only start to progress through the break zone when you are comfortable with your surfboard control, your paddling technique and you understand the surfing conditions.

First of all study the conditions, things you should be noticing are:-

• Are the waves breaking close to shore (shore break) or further out (back break), or both.

• Are the waves dumping hard or spilling and rolling through.

• Will you be in shallow or deep water.

• Is there a rip that could assist you, or, may be hazardous to you.

The oceans conditions can change on an hourly basis, the more time you spend studying your local surf break and other surfers will give you a better understanding and more confidence as you start to paddle out.

Secondly, your timing when you start to paddle out. Waves come through in what is called sets, on average at most surf breaks a set will contain between 3 to 6 waves, after the set passes the waves decrease and the ocean goes into a Lull. During the lull is when you want to be paddling through the break zone.

At some surf breaks the break zone may only be a short 10 metre sprint, and at other breaks it may be a gruelling 50 metre paddle. As a beginner you should only start to paddle out when the surf is small and not very powerful.

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